The owners of fluffy, charming rabbits are asked, first of all, by the question - in what conditions should their pets live.

How to choose a place to install a cage

Let us first dwell on the backyard keeping of eared animals. There are two options:

• open content (outdoors);
• placement of cages indoors (for example, in a barn).

To select the location of the cells, you must follow the rules.

• Air humidity should not exceed 60-75% (therefore, the cells are installed in a dry, elevated place, remote from water bodies).
• Because the rabbits categorically do not perceive direct sunlight, then the cells should ideally be located among trees that give shade, or protected by an artificial fence that scatters direct sunlight.
• Drafts are a common cause of illness in rabbits. Therefore, air movement exceeding 30 m/s is undesirable. However, cage ventilation is one of the rules that must be strictly observed. Otherwise, the fumes of the secretions will damage the health of your pets.

In winter, the places where rabbits are kept should be insulated so that the temperature fluctuates in the range of 10-20 C. Particular attention is paid to the insulation of queen cells and compartments for rabbits.

If animals are kept indoors, then it must be:

• necessarily plastered,
• well ventilated,
• illuminated in winter no more than 10 hours.

Ideally, the animal cage should have a full-wall south-facing window.

It is also desirable to arrange cells in open space in accordance with the cardinal points - facing east.

And one more nuance - the cells must be installed at a height of 0.8-1.0 m from the ground. This will protect the rabbits from being bitten by domestic rodents and will greatly facilitate the maintenance of the cage by the breeder.

The classic version of the cage for keeping rabbits is a design of the following sizes:

• 50 * 70 * 30 cm - for young animals;
• 50*100*30 cm - for rabbits.

The entire space of the cage is divided into a walking room and a deaf corner, where rabbits of all ages find refuge in moments of "danger" and bad weather. The length of the paddock can vary, but is usually up to 50 cm long and wide. A favorite shelter for rabbits is a box 25 cm long and 50 cm wide. It is sheathed tightly, and only a removable door is attached to the front side. The manhole is located in the wall adjacent to the walking room, and is usually 17 * 17 cm.

The specificity of the structure of the rabbit cage is that a mesh or slatted floor is usually equipped for the free passage of waste into the tray under the floor.

The height of the front side of the cage is usually 55 cm, and the back wall is 30 cm. That is, the cage assumes a sloping roof, which, in the case of a “tiered” placement of cages, will also be a pallet for higher cages, and therefore it is usually upholstered with galvanized iron.

Materials for making cells

When choosing materials for the manufacture of cages, it is better to give preference to high-quality and ecological wood. For the construction of the frame, wooden beams are suitable. Board or plywood is well suited for wall cladding. Chipboard is unacceptable because it takes on water, swells and crumbles.

To arrange the floor, a welded mesh with cells of 1.7 * 1.7 cm is used, or wooden slats up to 3 cm wide. The slats are placed at a distance of 1.5 cm from each other, for free passage of waste into the pallet. If the distance between the rails is greater than the specified one, or the grid cells are larger, then this is fraught with fractures of the paws when stuck in large openings. Floor slats can be plastic.

One condition must be strictly observed - the material for the manufacture of cells must be smooth, without traumatic foreign inclusions.

Dimensions and drawings of a cage for rabbits

The sizes of cages for rabbits are directly dependent on:

• rabbit breeds;
• the chosen scheme of keeping (mini-farms, cells of the "battery" type, according to Zolotukhin
• etc.);
• normative indicators of the required space (for example, for rabbits - 0.5-0.7 sq.m.,
• males will need - 0.17 sq.m., and young animals - 0.12 sq.m.).

In practice, houses of two connected cages 100 * 55 cm in size are often used. In these cages, the uterine compartments are adjacent to the outer walls of the cage and communicate with the aft compartments with manholes 17 * 17 cm. There are doors on the front side of the house: two solid ones in the nesting compartments, and two mesh ones in the walking spaces. Between them there are mangers and drinking bowls. Feeders are usually attached to the front side of the mesh doors.

Solid wire cage

This type of cage is designed to be placed in livestock-type premises and even in ordinary hay sheds. The walls and ceiling of the cells are sheathed with a mesh with cells of 2.5-5 cm, the floor - 1.7 * 1.7 cm.

The main advantage of these cells is the simplicity and accessibility of cleaning and disinfection. To do this, all you need is a good brush and a propane torch, which will help you easily get rid of unnecessary microorganisms and accumulations of rabbit fluff.

Solid wire cages take up much less space, which is also their advantage when running a farm.

Difficulties in building cells

The main problem in making a cage with your own hands is the lack of high-quality and detailed drawings, or the unjustified high cost of licensed options (for example, drawings from Rabbitax).

The second difficulty that the home master faces is the non-standard size of the building materials used. And as a result, the need to purchase materials on order. Added to this is the lack of experience in making cells, and the cost of materials is exorbitantly high.

Novice craftsmen make similar mistakes when building cages:

• saving material leads to tightness, which adversely affects the health and reproduction of rabbits;
• the uterine or nesting compartment must be stationary (bunches scare the rabbit and can cause a crush of rabbits).

In order to reduce stress during the jigging of young animals, you can use a cage with a stationary shelter for rabbits, in which a hole measuring 12 * 12 cm will not allow the rabbit to constantly be with the rabbits. And the moment of separating the rabbits will no longer be so stressful.

N.I. cells are very popular. Zolotukhin. Their main the difference is the absence of pallets, i.e. flat slate solid floor, and the presence of a grid only on the back of the cells to a width of 15-20 cm. The staggered location of one cell above another helps to get rid of waste from the "upper floors" to the "lower". A characteristic feature is also the absence of nesting compartments. The rabbit is given the opportunity to build a queen cell from hay on her own. The feeders in the doors are mounted on rotating nails, thanks to their hinged design, they are easy to clean.

On our site there is an article devoted to which you will find everything practical advice and recommendations from the author, in addition, you can get acquainted with the drawings and sizes of cells.

Cells from Tsvetkov

This is a kind of four-apartment house, with an equipped ventilation and "sewerage" system. There are also mounted queen cells and gravity feeders and drinkers. The hay manger is upholstered with galvanized mesh and fastened to the frame with nails. All vulnerable parts are reinforced with tin plates. In winter, the departments for young rabbits and queen cells are heated with conventional medical heating pads. Unusual is the turn of the face of the cell to the south.

Rabbitax for beginner rabbit breeders

Cells from the company Rabbitaks are distinguished by a peculiar decor and environmental friendliness of execution ( a system of redirection of air flows characteristic only for them). They are mainly intended for large farms. But there are acceptable options, for example, a cage of two compartments. For a novice master, the drawings are still complicated. And the main disadvantage is the high cost of manufacture.

Author's designs

I would like to note the cages for Mikhailov's rabbits. The main advantage of mini-farms is their compactness (the ability to keep 25 individuals on an area of ​​25 sq.m., taking into account the distance between the houses of 70 cm). The undoubted advantage is also the automation of waste collection in a sealed container. A significant drawback of Mikhailov's cells can be called expensive materials for construction and the undoubted professionalism of the performer.

The design of E. Ovdienko attracts attention. Its characteristic difference is the special gates that close the four-tiered structure, containing 24 cells, from wind and weather vagaries.

DIY cage for decorative rabbits

Decorative eared creatures can also perfectly exist in a DIY cage. For a simple solution, you need to decide on the question - how often your pet is expected to walk in open space. If the rabbit walks for at least 3 hours a day, then a cage size of 70 * 40 cm is sufficient. If your pet spends most of the time "at home", then the cage size should be 100 * 50 cm. Otherwise, you should follow the same building rules cells, as for rabbit farms.

Of all the above cages for rabbits, a novice master will be able to choose the best option for himself, combining ease of execution, ease of maintenance and acceptable cost.

If you decide to start a decorative rabbit, we recommend that you read the same, and is no less important.

See also the video - how to make a cage with your own hands.

Even novice rabbit breeders can build a cage with their own hands. The most common design options are: one- and two-section, Zolotukhin's cage, Mikhailov's mini-farm and solid-wire cage.

You can always buy a cage ready-made, but it's better to make it yourself. Standard set materials that will be required to create a simple cell:

• thick plywood, boards or mesh for walls;
• wooden bars for support or frame;
• mesh with small cells or slats for the bottom;
• boards, plywood or slate for the roof (when placed outdoors, the roof is sheathed with roofing material).

Care must be taken that the materials are smooth and safe for rabbits. Dangerous, protruding parts should be cut, pulled out or treated with sandpaper.

If you do not create a drawing of a cage for rabbits in advance, then some difficulties and inconsistencies may arise during the manufacture. It is better to take a ready-made drawing with dimensions. If you are making a cage for the first time, do not order expensive materials and prefer a simpler design. In the future, based on your own experience, you will be able to independently develop a version of the cage, which will be convenient for you to care for.

Design options for rabbit cages, drawings with dimensions

Before starting to build a rabbit abode, you need to create a drawing of a cage for rabbits with dimensions. We believe that you have already decided on the materials, now you just need to imagine what the compartments will be like, decide on the dimensions.

For adult rabbits, a two-section cage is often made, 150 by 70 cm and an approximate height of 50-70 cm. For young animals, the height may be less - from 45 cm. We suggest making the back wall slightly lower than the front. For example, if the height of the front is 50 cm, then the back wall can be made 40-45 cm high. Below is a variant of the cage for rabbits (dimensions and drawings).

To divide into 2 sections, a partition is made of wood with a 20 by 20 cm hole cut in it at a distance of 20 cm from the floor. The top of the structure is better to make folding. This will greatly simplify maintenance. Along the side walls, a nesting compartment for rabbits is equipped. It can be made plug-in or installed permanently. In the first case, the "mobile" nesting compartment will have dimensions of 35 x 35 x 30 cm. The roof of such a house can be straight or pitched, but should be tilted at a slight angle.

If the drawings of the cages for rabbits provide for a nesting compartment, then a hole with a diameter of 20 cm should be cut between the feeding compartment and the nesting compartment. You also need to take care of the mother liquor for rabbits, with dimensions of 35 x 35 x 20 cm. It is made with a solid floor, without a lid.

Rabbits will grind their manholes if they are not upholstered with tin linings. The door to the feeding compartment is made of mesh, and a solid one is placed in the nesting compartment. If there is no aft compartment, then both doors are made of mesh.

Feeders and drinkers should be marked on the diagram. They can be made removable, retractable, stationary. The latter are equipped with lids for ease of use. Feeders should be made in such a way that they cannot be contaminated by rabbits.

When placed outdoors, the cages are placed on legs made of bars 70-80 cm high. This measure allows you to comfortably clean the cages and prevents rodents and other animals from climbing into the habitat of rabbits. If there are opportunities and space, you can make a cage with a paddock. A valve is made in the back wall, and the paddock is made from a grid and placed tightly against the back wall.

A separate rather spacious cage should be provided for 3-4 rabbits. If the rabbit feeds the little rabbits, then they are next to her. If some rabbits do not grow well and gain weight, then it is better to put them in a small cage (which should be built in advance and left free). There they can be fed separately.

You can always make two- and even three-tier cages, which will accommodate more individuals. A fine-mesh net is installed at the bottom of multi-tiered cells, and a Plexiglas slope is placed under the floor for waste drainage. Under the lowest tier, you need to install a retractable container in which waste will accumulate.

Cell insulation

In winter, you need to especially carefully approach the comfort of the inhabitants of the cage. If grooved boards served as the material for manufacturing, then it is imperative to fill the space between the walls with heat insulators. Natural materials such as straw, leaves, moss are suitable for this purpose. These heaters will have to be changed periodically, as they tend to absorb moisture. Insulation can also be standard thermal insulation materials used in the construction of houses: mineral wool and foam.

If the winter weather is severe, then it is worth insulating the houses from the side of the facade. Double floors and roof are being made. To insulate the bottom of the house, you can build a pallet and install it with a slope in the center so that all waste products roll down there. After that, you can lay a thermal insulation layer. A two-layer floor should also be made in the mother liquor, and it would be good to put an electric heating pad in its cavity. It is very important to make the wires inaccessible to rabbits.

Sheet iron or slate is used to cover the cells. The main thing is that the material copes well with waterproofing properties. Sheets should be overlapped, which will protect against leakage. Doors for frost protection are equipped with wooden shutters.

Zolotukhin's cell

The cells of the rabbit breeder Zolotukhin are in great demand. More than 30 years ago, Nikolai Ivanovich designed such cages in which rabbits grow well and almost do not get sick.

Design

Rabbit dwellings do not have a pallet or mesh floor. The bottom is made solid from boards or from slate. Only near the back wall is the floor made of mesh in order for waste to flow out. To allow the waste to flow down under the influence of gravity, the floor is slightly tilted. Each higher tier is longer than the previous one by the size of the mesh area. Below are presented cages for rabbits, drawings with dimensions, photos for review.

There is also no separate nesting compartment in Zolotukhin's designs. It is installed in the house when needed, in cold weather. In the summer, the rabbit builds a queen cell on her own from planted hay. The area with cubs is limited from the adult area by an ordinary board with a sawn edge.

The feeder is built into the door. It is easy to tilt and clean, does not take up internal space. You can pour food without opening the cage door. At the same time, the feeder is attached to nails, made of wood upholstered with tin (so that rabbits do not gnaw it).

A distinctive feature of such cells is simplicity in design, the ability for pets to feel comfortable and multiply. To save space, the building is made of two or three tiers, each of which is designed for one rabbit family or 3-6 adults.

The size

The cage should be about 2 meters wide and about 150 cm high. The depth of the sections is 70-80 cm. The approximate height of one floor is 50 cm. The dimensions of the door are 40 x40 cm. without fail the floor is tilted to remove waste 5-7 cm. The width of the grid strip on the floor at the back wall is 15-20 cm.

The dimensions of the removed queen box are as follows: front wall height: 16 cm, rear wall height - 26 cm, ceiling and floor - 40x40 cm. The female entry hole is 15 x 15 cm. Instead of a separate queen cell for the winter, the author of the drawing suggests using a simpler option.

Cells according to the Mikhailov method

Academician Mikhailov created a methodology based on minimal interference in the life of eared animals. young growth all year round contained in outdoor cages with forced exhaust ventilation. Young rabbits feed on their mother's milk for the first three months, they are not poisoned by waste products, since manure automatically enters the lower compartment of the cage. The people caring for the animals disturb the rabbits minimally.

As a result, in the first four months, the young growth gains 4-6 kg in weight, almost does not get sick, and females do not breed in accordance with the season, but all year round. The effectiveness of Mikhailov cells is recognized not only in Russia, but also in other countries. Around the world there are thousands of farms and mini farms created using this technique. What are the design differences?

Design features

In a cage, there are usually 2-4 compartments with a sealed collector for waste products. The original version of a single-tiered cage allows you to keep two adults. New design options ("Kvarta" and "Yurt") are designed for the maintenance of pregnant females and teenage rabbits. Cages can be one- and two-tiered, but they necessarily provide for a sealed manure collector.

The principle of location in space is as follows. The rear solid wall should face north so that the rabbits are protected from the cold wind. The rest of the walls are made of mesh. The farm is equipped with heating of mother liquors and drinkers, a ventilation system is installed.

Let us consider in more detail the design for four adults. Conventionally, the following parts of the cage can be distinguished: upper, lower and stand. The upper part consists of one or two tiers where eared ones live. In the lower part there is a cone for collecting waste products and a compartment where the manure is located before cleaning. The base part provides reliable fixation of the structure on the ground. The floors in the cage are made slatted, the slats are laid parallel to each other diagonally.

Dimensions

The design is small in size, despite the high functionality. You can verify this by looking at the drawings with the dimensions of the cages for rabbits according to the Mikhailov method.

The total area of ​​one building for two rabbits - up to 1.4 square meters. The height is 210 cm, the width is 240 cm, the width of individual sections is 60 cm, and the height is 70 cm. The mother liquors are made 35 cm wide and 40 cm high. The dimensions of the manure collector are not important, the main thing is that the surface slope is 45 degrees.

The feeder is made 15 by 12 cm, and 30 cm high. An automatic drinker of arbitrary sizes is installed, corresponding to the height of the ceiling in the section. The total height of the legs of the stand is 140 cm. At a height of approximately 35-45 cm from the ground, fixing beams are attached around the perimeter of the frame to ensure greater stability.

Cells of the design "Klenovo-Chegodaevo"

These are double cages, to which you can attach a mesh aviary. Used for keeping young animals, adult rabbits, non-pregnant females. Also suitable for youngsters. Sometimes a male is placed in one of the halves, and a rabbit is placed in the other. So you can use the cage for mating.

Below is a cage of the following sizes. The length is 2 meters, the width of the cage itself is 65 cm, the height of the front wall is 75 cm. The height of the enclosure and the back wall is 60 cm. A hole is cut out of the cage into the enclosure, which is blocked by an insert partition. The bottom is made of fine mesh. During birthing and in case of possible frosts, solid sheets of plywood or wooden shields are placed on the floor of the enclosure.

Exit to the common mesh enclosure has a positive effect on the condition of the rabbits. Active movement and the ability to “communicate” with relatives are what rabbits in cramped cages so often lack. Okrol in such conditions can be obtained even in winter.

Possible shortcomings in the first construction of the cell

There are popular mistakes that beginner rabbit breeders make. Here are the most common:

• Some believe that a solid bottom in cages is acceptable, and it will not be difficult to clean it. But in reality, such a solution turns out to be extremely impractical. In winter, manure freezes to the bottom.
• A completely mesh floor in cages has its drawbacks. In the cold season, a rabbit can freeze to the floor with its paws or genitals, which turns into injuries for it. It is also dangerous that the rabbit's feet will get stuck in the notches.
• The rabbitry installed outdoors must be protected from the sun in summer and from the cold in winter.
• Do not make the cage door too small. This will make it difficult to regularly care for rabbits.
• The rabbit needs a separate section for okrol. If you often pull her out of the cage, then she will receive severe stress and may lose her reproductive ability.
• Rabbits should not be crowded, as this will adversely affect their condition.

Breeding rabbits in households can be profitable, as well as turn into continuous losses. Rabbits actively breed, grow quickly, eat green fodder, and their meat and skins are expensive - and this brings considerable profit to the breeder. However, they are capricious in keeping and subject to high mortality. Therefore, the construction of rabbitry should be given the closest attention. We will talk about how to create a rabbitry with your own hands in this article.

The word "bunny" has a double meaning. This is the name of the room where there are rabbit enclosures, as well as cages made together and mini-farms standing on the street.

Most often, rabbitries are heated and lit rooms with good ventilation, where there are cages in tiers. In regions with a mild climate, open rabbitries are more often used, which are a structure of two or three walls covered with a canopy.

Rabbit Hut - inside view

A good rabbitry must meet the following requirements:

• create comfortable conditions for living and breeding animals;
• be convenient in service for a person of average height and build;
• have a well-thought-out system for removing waste products from cells and their subsequent disposal.

The buildings for the rabbitry are made one-story and rectangular. They are built according to GOST 23838.

In practice, cages with these animals can also be placed in a frame-type barn.

Common designs and their features

A standard indoor rabbitry is a closed room equipped with lighting, ventilation and heating systems, less often with a water supply system. There are cages in long rows, usually in three tiers. Between them there are passages, the optimal width of which is 1.5 m. Often part of the rabbitry is separated under Technical buildings and food storage.

Tiered mini-farms

Rabbit in a hole

This is one of the most controversial decisions, supporters and opponents of such a design are approximately equally divided.

An example of a "pit" keeping of rabbits

Advantages of "pit" content:

• burrow life is natural for rabbits;
• in the pits, the microclimate, humidity and temperature normal for rabbits are naturally formed;
• animals breed all year round;
• good litter survival;
• animals get sick less often and gain weight better;
• feed is given to all animals at once, this saves time and effort.

Cons of "pit" content:

• it is impossible to regulate mating;
• it is difficult to monitor the condition of individual individuals;
• difficult to catch animals;
• there is a chance that the rabbits will dig under the walls and escape.

Example No. 1 of keeping rabbits in pits
Example No. 2 of keeping rabbits in pits
Example No. 3 of keeping rabbits in pits

For pit keeping in rabbitry, a hole is dug 1 to 2 meters deep around the entire perimeter. The floor and walls are concreted to prevent escapes. The resulting pit is covered with sand about 20 cm thick, on which a mesh is laid for ease of cleaning. Inside they put feeders, drinkers, and you can run rabbits.

According to a number of farmers, pit content is the best option, as it is as close as possible to the natural living conditions of rabbits. It is believed that the meat characteristics of underground rabbits are much better. However, with all the advantages, the organization of such housing is associated with a number of difficulties. deal with rabbits in the pits in.

All-weather version with insulated compartments

The climate of Russia is such that in most of its territory the winter is too cold for keeping rodents in the open air or in uninsulated rooms. Therefore, for the successful maintenance of rabbits, you need to think about warming. There are two options here, and to achieve the best result, they must be combined. Either heat the rabbitry, or insulate the compartments themselves, which contain the animals.

The temperature in the place of their maintenance should not fall below -5. The range from +5 to +15-20 degrees is considered ideal for this time of year. Approaching the upper threshold of the specified range is most desirable; in warmth, rabbits breed well and gain weight. This will help prevent seasonal "breaks" in this type of business.

In the mother liquor, the temperature should not fall below 10 degrees, otherwise the rabbits may die, or, under the best circumstances, they will lag significantly behind in development, and the farmer will spend more on keeping the cubs than he will eventually make a profit. Keep in mind that rabbits are born naked and are very sensitive to cold. Although the female herself takes care of heating the cubs and warming the nest, both mole rats, and already grown up, and rabbits that have grown hair - low temperatures, everything is even, harmful. Systematic freezing leads to slow growth and poor weight gain, as well as a decrease in immunity.

The original method of warming the compartments was invented by Russian rabbit breeders. A “pocket” made of thick plywood is attached to the bottom of the compartment, where an electric heating pad of the EG-1 brand (or another) is inserted. With the help of a transformer, the heating pad, if necessary, is switched on to a reduced mode, thereby heating the floor of the cage.

Basic principles to follow when creating a rabbitry

Regardless of the design of the rabbitry and cages chosen, there are certain sanitary and hygienic standards that must be observed. In particular, there are certain standards for lighting, temperature and cage ventilation. When creating a rabbitry, they must be followed.

Types and sizes of cells

From the description of large structures, let's move on to small ones, that is, to cells. They can be used both autonomously, for keeping one or two animals separately from the rest, or stand in a barn-type rabbitry or be part of a collapsible mini-farm complex.

There are a lot of options for cages for rabbits. But all of them can be divided into three conditional groups, depending on the purpose.

mother liquors

These are cages of a special design, where rabbits are placed for lambing. There she gives birth and lives with the cubs until they reach twenty days of age.

A distinctive feature is the presence of a nest. It is a box made from improvised materials, such as plywood, and has dimensions of 40 cm x 40 cm x 30 cm.

Nest building rules:

• it is necessary to cut a hole in the nest at a height of at least 10 cm. This is done so that too small rabbits cannot get out of the nest;
• the floor in the mother liquor should only be solid;
• the plywood from which the nest is made rots from the secretions of animals, so it is necessary to lay a piece of waterproof material on the bottom, for example, a stainless steel sheet, and a thick layer of straw on top;
• the lid is made so that it can be raised and lowered (it is best to put it on furniture hinges);
• if the mother liquor will stand on the street or in a cold room in the winter, you need to take care of heating (you can use a cheap and proven heating method: an infrared lamp placed in a special compartment).

Two-section cage with sennik for adults

This type of design is good for keeping two adult animals. At plus temperatures it is permissible to expose it outdoors, at minus temperatures it is recommended to use it indoors, including heated ones.

A two-section cage is a wooden box with a length of 1.4 - 2 m, a height of 0.5 to 0.7 m and a width of 0.5-0.7 m. The upper, lower, side and rear walls are made solid. It is best to use constructions knocked down without gaps from sanded unpainted boards for this, but other solutions are possible, for example, from a fine mesh or from tin. In the last two cases, it is worth taking care of a rigid, strong frame that will hold the entire structure.

Drinking bowls and feeders are placed at the edges, so that the animals could not climb there with their paws.

Two-section cells can also be made multi-tiered. This will help to more rationally use the rabbitry area.

Video - Do-it-yourself two-section cage

Cage with nest

This option is a little more difficult to manufacture, but allows the rabbit to lead a more natural lifestyle for him. In this case, the cage is divided into two compartments with a manhole between them. The smaller compartment is insulated with hay and serves as a nest.

group cells

Enclosures for young animals 3-6 months old, also called group cages. Animals can be both heterosexual and same-sex. Please note that uncastrated males may begin to show aggression towards each other early, in which case they must be seated in individual compartments. The typical dimensions of this cage are 120 by 50 by 40 cm.

How to create a drawing of a rabbitry

Of course, a drawing of a single cage or a whole rabbitry can be done independently, or simply fit any of the above options to fit your size. The main parameter you need to know is the number of rabbits that you plan to keep in a cage.

• For one young animal, a minimum of 0.1-0.2 m2 is required. For a comfortable stay, this rate should be increased to 0.5 m2. Males, which are planned to be put into breeding, need 2 times more space.
• An adult animal needs at least half a meter of free space. Ideally, a meter to be able to fully move.
• Vlya rabbits large breeds these standards need to be increased. The dimensions should be such that the animal can freely stretch out to its full length along the cage, without resting its body against the walls, and can sit without touching the lid with its ears.
• There must be a separate nest in the mother liquor. Its typical dimensions are 40 cm x 40 cm x 30 cm.

When the dimensions are determined, you can proceed to the drawing. You should start by drawing a top view: draw a rectangle of the required dimensions, if necessary, divide it into compartments. Then, on the drawing, all elements are indicated: partitions, doors, manholes, feeders, etc. Dimensions are affixed everywhere. Based on the top view, the side view is drawn. An imaginary section should pass through the most technologically complex section, for example, along the mother liquor nest. The sizes must match. You can draw a bottom view by drawing Special attention legs and support structure.

Nuances in the manufacture of rabbitry

If you are building a cage for the first time, here are a few tips that will come in handy. They are not obvious to new farmers and will help to avoid mistakes.

Watching a video, where you can personally observe the construction process by professionals, also helps to avoid mistakes.

Video - Step by step building a cage for rabbits

Tools and materials

To build a rabbitry, you do not need anything particularly rare or expensive. Of the tools, a regular construction set is enough. The presence of a welding machine will be a plus.

Usually, lining, timber or ordinary boards are taken for construction. Only their use is not recommended, rabbits gnaw through the tree. Therefore, it is combined with the following materials:

Let's analyze: what materials are the parts for creating cells.

• Frame. It is made from wooden blocks.
• Side and back walls. They are made from thick boards. There are recommendations to make walls from plywood, but you should not do this. Plywood is less durable, warps, delaminates and bubbles from moisture, and, most importantly, rabbits quickly gnaw through it.
• front wall. Made from fine mesh. Iron mesh can only be taken if it is painted or coated, otherwise it will rust.

• Floor. It is made from fine mesh or boards stuffed in parallel.
• Roof. It is made of wood, roofing material, slate. But corrugated board can be used exclusively for covering cages standing under a canopy or indoors - it gets very hot in the sun.

How to choose a seat

Whether you want to build a building, a mini-farm, or just put a few cages under a shed, you need to start by choosing the right place.

taken in Russian Federation building codes allow the construction of an outbuilding with an area of ​​​​15 square meters on a personal plot. m. and a building for keeping farm animals or poultry with an area of ​​40 sq. m. The residential building must be at least 15 m away from the two above-mentioned buildings.

Additionally, you need to take care of the following:

Even if there is no place on your personal plot that fully satisfies all these conditions, try to get as close to the ideal as possible. Small discrepancies are not critical.

Step-by-step instructions for creating a rabbitry for beginners

At first glance, it seems that such a structure is very difficult to build on your own, but this is just an illusion. Even for a delitant, it is quite possible to make a rabbitry on your own, spending from several hours to several days of time on it.

If you decide to build a rabbitry with your own hands, the algorithm of actions should be as follows.

Step 1. Using the above tips, choose a place for the future rabbitry, decide on its size, layout, material for construction.

Step 2 Build the cage frame according to the dimensions in the drawing. It can be wood or metal. If several cells stand side by side, the frame must be solid.

Step 3 With the help of a joiner's square and a level, a shelf and an upper frame are attached to the frame;

Step 4 The bottom and lid are assembled on a frame made of wooden beams or they are cut separately from thick plywood. In the latter case, at the corners it is necessary to cut holes for the legs.

Step 5 The bottom and lid are attached to the frame.

Step 6 A mesh is nailed to the door. Attach it to the frame with furniture dowels.

We nail the frame, in which there will be a grid in the future

Step 7 Upholstered with a net or clog the sides of the cage with boards. The mesh is cut with scissors for metal and put on self-tapping screws with a screwdriver.

Help in the construction will also help watching the video of the manufacturing process.

Video - Do-it-yourself rabbit cage from professionals

This video shows in detail all the stages of construction, are given helpful tips newcomers.

As can be seen from the article, making a rabbitry with your own hands is quite realistic even for a beginner. You just need to strictly follow the advice, and everything will work out.

Many novice farmers are wondering where to start breeding rabbits. This activity will not require any special costs. First of all, it is necessary to equip a place of residence for eared animals, prepare cages, drinkers, feeders. All this can be easily done by hand. The main thing is to choose the appropriate design and size for the cage, prepare drawings, necessary tools and building materials.

First of all, you need to decide on the size. The most common are double designs with two separate sections. There are other types of cages: single-section, group for young rabbits, three sections or for a rabbit with babies. There are also author's designs: from the farmer Zolotukhin, from the breeder Tsvetkov. Based on what will be built, and materials are selected.

First of all, it is necessary to determine the type of cell, and then purchase the material.

Necessary tools for construction:

• hacksaw;
• a hammer;
• corner;
• pliers;
• plane;
• screwdriver.

Any design implies the presence of a frame, walls, floor, ceiling and doors. Most often, wood and metal mesh are used to build cages. Each cell of such a grid should be no more than 2 * 2 cm and at least 16 * 47 mm in diameter (depending on the age and weight of the rabbits).

The minimum set of materials includes:

• large sheets of plywood;
• slate;
• screws and nails;
• bars;
• slats;
• durable galvanized mesh (with small cells).

For the manufacture of doors, curtains and latches, as well as feeders and drinking bowls, are additionally purchased.

The wood must be well sanded and sanded, the ends of the mesh must be securely fastened. Be sure to remove all sharp edges so that the animal does not get hurt. It is better to cover all protruding wooden parts inside the cage with tin. Rabbits love to chew on wood to grind their teeth. Therefore, it is necessary to put branches in the feeder more often. The walls and roof can be made of plywood and mesh, and for the main frame choose thick bars of wood.

Attention. If the cage is located in an open space, on the street, then good roofing materials cannot be dispensed with. But a metal roof is not worth doing. In the summer, in the sun, it will become very hot, which will lead to heat stroke in rabbits.

Most often, rabbit cages are made of wood and mesh.

The frame is made of thick bars, the length of which depends on the location of the cell. If it is installed outdoors, then the length of the legs of the frame should not be less than 80-100 cm. For a cage standing indoors, 35-40 cm of length is enough.

Sizes and types of cells

First of all, you need to find or make yourself the right drawing. It is important to remember that one cage for breeding rabbits is not enough. You need to build three or four at once.

The average dimensions of a standard cage are:

• length 120-140 cm;
• width 70-80 cm;
• height 40-50 cm.

For young rabbits, a length of about 90 cm is sufficient, and the rest of the parameters may remain the same. For one adult animal, it is customary to allocate at least 0.7 square meters. m. area, for young animals - 0.2 square meters. m.

There are several types of cells:

• for the young;
• for adult rabbits;
• for a rabbit with offspring;
• for giant rabbits;
• solid wire;
• cells from Zolotukhin;
• cells from Tsvetkov;
• Rabbitax.

It is customary to keep rabbits with babies together, and for already grown up rabbits they build a separate house.

A standard two-story house for adult rabbits is easy to build.

On the drawing, it will look like this:

Drawing of a bunk cage for rabbits.

Cage for young animals

The grown rabbits weaned from their mothers are kept together, in groups of 10-20 individuals. In the manufacture of cells are guided minimum dimensions: total area 300 × 100 cm and ceiling height 50-60 cm. It is advisable to make the floor in such a house from thin wooden slats, covering them on the side metal mesh(thickness 1.5 mm and cell diameter 15*40 mm). You can install a completely mesh floor, but make a separate warm room for the rabbits. In winter, it is carefully insulated with hay and straw.

Important. One rabbit should have at least 0.2-0.3 square meters. m. area.

Some farmers do not make separate housing for young animals, but settle them in cages intended for adult animals. At the same time, it is calculated how many rabbits can be placed in one cage in order to provide them with comfortable conditions.

For adult rabbits

For adult animals of medium size, cages with a depth of about 70 cm, a height of 60 cm and a length of at least a meter are suitable. It uses a block construction, and each block, in turn, is divided by a grid into two cells. For the mating period, the partition should be removed, combining two sections into one.

For adult rabbits, you can make a block of cages in 2 or 3 tiers.

You can make a two-tier and three-tier cage. It will be a little more difficult, but it will save space on the site.

In any cage, a separate place for sleeping, eating or walking should be equipped. To do this, the cage is divided by a plywood partition with a hole (20 × 20 cm) located at a height of 15 cm from the floor. The sleeping compartment should have a solid wooden door, and the place for eating and walking should have a mesh one. The resting place does not need to be made large. Ideal dimensions, approximately 30x60x50 cm.

House for a rabbit with offspring

You can often hear the opinion that a rabbit with babies needs a separate mother liquor only in winter, and in summer a regular cage is enough. But you need to remember that in an open room, fenced only with a net, the female will be nervous and worried. This can adversely affect the health of the offspring. In the mother house, there must be a closed, warm place for the nest and a large space for walking, with a mesh front wall.

This is one of the simplest and most functional options for a house for a female with an offspring:

The photo shows a two-tier cage for rabbits with hinged nest compartments.

A frame is made of durable bars, and the back wall and two side walls are made of plywood. The cage is immediately divided into two sections: a large one for walking and a small one for the nest. For each of them, separate doors are made (mesh and solid wood). The walls, floor and ceiling in the mother liquor should be double, according to the sandwich principle. Styrofoam or straw can be laid between them. The roof is covered with slate.

Home for giant rabbits

Cages for these large animals must be much larger than normal. Adults can grow up to 60 cm in length and reach a weight of 7.5 kg.

There are many giant breeds:

• butterfly;
• German Risen;
• grey;
• Belgian;
• ram;
• white;
• blue Viennese.

The minimum dimensions of a house for one rabbit should be as follows:

• height 55-65 cm;
• length 0.9-1.5 m;
• width 70-75 cm.

If possible, it is better to increase the parameters of the dwelling.

For young rabbits, a special group cage is built, 40-50 cm high and about 1.2 square meters in area. m. Considering the rather big weight of animals, they strengthen the floor well. It is also made from galvanized mesh, only thicker. So that such a floor does not sag, a crate is made under it from bars located at a distance of 3-4 cm from each other.

Giant rabbits are recommended to be kept in spacious cages with solid floor.

Some rabbit breeders lay a solid wooden floor in the cages and install plastic pallets under it. But cleaning in such a cage will have to be done at least twice a day.

Solid wire cage

This is the most budgetary version of rabbit housing, which can be installed both outdoors and indoors. These lightweight and durable cages take up little space and are easy to store and clean. For their manufacture, two types of mesh are required: a larger one for walls and ceiling (diameter 2.5 * 5 cm) and smaller - for the floor (1.5 * 5 cm). The frame is built from a durable timber, with a leg length of 50-70 cm. For the winter period, such a structure is placed in an insulated barn, and in the summer it is taken out into the street.

Cages for rabbits from Zolotukhin

The well-known breeder N.I. Zolotukhin developed his own, original, simple and inexpensive design of a dwelling for rabbits. There is no need to do daily cleaning in the cages, and the animals in them feel comfortable and get sick less.

Zolotukhin's cage is a three-story building with a sloping plywood floor. The mesh is laid on the floor only in a small space at the rear wall, without a pallet. The second tier is shifted relative to the first by the width of this grid. The third one is the same. The front wall (common for all three floors) forms a slope. Each compartment is equipped with a tilting feeder.

This is what Zolotukhin's three-tiered cage looks like from the back.

For the construction of the cage you will need: wood, straight sheet slate, metal mesh, polycarbonate and tin. A wooden frame, partitions and doors of the mother liquor are pre-made. Mesh is used for cage doors and the back of the floor. The floor itself is made of slate, and the back wall is made of polycarbonate. All wooden parts located inside the cage are upholstered with tin.

Cell dimensions:

• height 150 cm;
• width 200cm;
• depth about 70-80 cm;
• floor slope 6-8 cm;
• mesh width in front of the back wall 15-20 cm;
• door size 40*40 cm.

Each floor is divided by a partition into two sections, and between them there is a place for a sennik.

Cells from Tsvetkov

An experienced farmer A. A. Tsvetkov proposed the idea of ​​a two-story mini-farm for rabbits, consisting of 4 separate sections. A distinctive feature of such cages are: two gravity feeders, two mounted queen cells, original ventilation and manure removal systems.

The frame is built from coniferous timber and must be painted with white nitro paint. Moisture-resistant plywood, at least 8 mm thick, is suitable for making a sennik. From the inside, the sennik is upholstered with a metal mesh, it also plays the role of a door in each section.

The photo shows cages for rabbits, made according to the drawings of farmer Tsvetkov.

All wooden parts are sheathed with sheet metal, the manure cone is covered with slate mastic. For the roof, you can use slate or roofing material. The water in the drinkers is heated using a boiler.

Rabbitax cells

Cells "Rabbitaks" come in different designs and modifications. The simplest are small two-section options. There are also ecological models based on the technology of redirecting air flows.

There are even real farms for rabbits "Rabbitaks", in which more than 25 individuals live and breed at the same time. On sale you can find a huge number of varieties of such cells. You can make "Rabbitaks" yourself. As a basis, you can take the drawings of the rabbit breeder I. N. Mikhailov.

Cell manufacturing rules

In order for the rabbits to be comfortable and comfortable in the new house, a few simple rules must be observed during construction:

• all wooden protruding parts inside the cage are upholstered with tin;
• for a roof device it is better to use slate;
• you can not use antiseptic, varnishes and impregnations;
• for the floor, take a grid with cells with a diameter of 1 * 2.5 cm to 2.5 * 2.5;
• the frame is built from a durable wooden beam (at least 5 * 5 cm);
• the back wall of the cage is made of plywood.

The floor in rabbit cages is made of wooden slats or mesh.

How to build a rabbit hutch

When the drawing is selected, materials and tools are prepared - you can start building. First you need to assemble a frame from a bar and lay a mesh floor. In outdoor conditions, the floor will have to be insulated and removable pallets made under it (for cleaning).

Next, install the back wall of plywood. It should be lower than the front. The side walls are also desirable to be made of plywood. In a double cage in the middle, a sennik is equipped. And the front wall can be made of mesh, with a door. If the cage will always be on the street, then you should take care of the insulated sleeping compartment. The sloping roof is covered with slate.

What do we place inside the cage

The internal contents of the cell may vary. It depends on who will live in it. So, for a rabbit with babies, it is necessary to arrange special queen cells and nesting compartments. When group keeping young animals, warm nesting rooms will also be needed. Often they are equipped with special indoor enclosures for walking. In each cage, there must be bunker devices, drinkers, feeders, senniks.

It is advisable to place the feeder and drinker outside the cage so that the rabbit cannot gnaw on them.

Choosing a place to install the cage

Before you start building, it is important to decide on the placement of the cage. It should be a comfortable place protected from through winds. You should not install a rabbit house on the south side, because in summer the animals will suffer from heat. It is necessary to strictly observe the size of the cage, depending on the breed and the number of rabbits. For ease of cleaning, a removable roof is made in the cells.

If the animals will live on the street all year round, then it is better to make the floor out of wood in the form of a retractable pallet. And already on top to fill the crate of the rails. Feeders and drinkers can be removable. The walls and ceiling are insulated with foam, and a warm floor with heating is installed in the uterine compartment.

We offer you to watch a video instruction that will help you build cages for rabbits with your own hands.

Even in our global and technocratic society, where everything can be purchased in a store, subsistence farming does not lose its relevance to this day. The most profitable and low-cost way of domestic animal husbandry is rabbit breeding. But, like any living creature, the rabbit must have its own comfortable living corner. These animals are kept in special cages located in the barn. Every novice rabbit breeder should know how to make a cage for rabbits.

Arrangement of the cell

Such a process will not seem laborious if all the conditions for the premises for breeding rabbits are met. One of the main requirements is compliance with the scale of such buildings. Therefore, initially you need to determine the size of the cages for rabbits. Even with a small number of animals, one cage for all will not be enough. You need to schedule at least three things. First you need to prepare drawings of cages for rabbits.

Required space for 1 head

A detailed drawing showing even the smallest details of the structure will provide you with a reliable building.

There are a lot of ways to construct how to build a rabbitry. Some provide comfort to animals, others are convenient for the owner in terms of financial costs. Each rabbit breeder himself chooses the best option, based on his capabilities. But, nevertheless, more often they make cages for rabbits with their own hands. According to reviews, simple rabbit mesh cages are popular. Such material can be found in any building supermarket, or you can rummage among your old stocks. Consider the process of creating a cage for rabbits from a grid with your own hands.

Net rabbitry

There are many varieties of such cages, such structures have proven themselves best:

• a cage without a supporting structure with supporting props;
• scaffold cells.

The manufacture of such structures will serve as home-made galvanized checkered weaving with strong wire. For the tops and side sections of the cells, a mesh with 25x50 mm links will suffice. The lower part provides for the use of small cells - in order to avoid slippage of the paws of fluffy animals. If you have determined the dimensions, you can begin construction.

In our case, the crate will be externally a mesh structure surrounded by a base with legs.

Step by step manufacturing

The construction of such a structure consists of several stages. Before you make a cage for rabbits with your own hands, you need to cut out certain details of the sides based on the size.

A pre-made template will help create the front and back parts of the same size, which are carefully cut out of the web of the mesh roll. Then the side parts are cut, completely matching along their perimeter.

1. The constructed rectangle is covered with a roof, and a grid with a small cell will serve as the base of the floor.
2. Initially, fasteners form walls.
3. Next, the base of the cell is installed. At the same time, weaves of the mesh of the front part of the very first cell are removed. There will be a pallet for animal waste.
4. Having outlined the doorway, we form a slot. There may be several.
5. Doors are also made using mesh and fastened with fasteners.
6. A mesh ceiling is laid over the resulting box.
7. The frame is made separately using wooden blocks. If the dimensional drawings are accurate and exceed the crate itself, our structure will easily fit into its supporting base.

Step by step photo instruction

The main work has been done, now you need to attach the finished structures to the wall with metal parts and put stops - in order to prevent the cage from staggering when the animals move. The sides and back are covered with plywood sheets, which are cut relative to the dimensions of the frame, and not to the dimensions of the mesh formations. Now it remains to fill the place of detention with the accessories necessary for the life of rabbits: feeders, drinkers, a tray, and you can populate the rabbitry with animals. This is the most common way to build a cage for rabbits in a grid way.

Mikhailov's rabbitry

The production of cages for rabbits must be thoughtful and serve as a guarantee that the animals will actively develop and gain weight. A popular scheme for such a development belongs to I. N. Mikhailov, a well-known rabbit breeder. Mikhailov's rabbit cages have an accessible and understandable guide to the stages of construction on their own at home.

Mikhailov's cage is made according to already developed drawing projects.

The essence of his technique lies in the division of the cell into three parts: the top, bottom and base section, each of which has its own functional affiliation. So, the upper part has one or two tiers, the lower base contains a tray for collecting feces, as well as a compartment where they are stored and stored until excavation. The support frame is also a fixing base. And the compartments of Mikhailov's cage for rabbits, intended for drinking and feed, move outward a little.

Thanks to this housing scheme, Mikhailov's rabbitry requires minimal maintenance - about an hour a week, and the animals are kept outside all year round.

Cases are mainly made of metal, and wood is used for insulation. There are simplified versions of such premises for rabbits that differ in appearance, therefore, we highlight the main features of the ratio of cell sizes according to the Mikhailov method:

• the total area of ​​one section containing a pair of animals ranges from 1.4 square meters. m.;
• cage height is 2.1 m, width 2.4 m;
• each section of the cage is constructed with a width of 0.6 m and a height of 0.7 m;
• queen cells have a length of 0.4 m, a width of 0.35 m, a cone for collecting waste products can be of any size.

The base in the form of legs on a frame stand reaches a height of 1.4 m. It is necessary to fix the supporting structure with fixing elements. This achieves the necessary stability of even the most simplified design.

Rabbit Zolotukhin

One of the most popular today are cages for rabbits by N. I. Zolotukhin, a man who put forward a number of necessary transformations that bring the conditions of keeping animals at home closer to the natural features of their life. Thus, an economical and fairly simple to create Zolotukhin cell appeared.

This design saves space, does not require daily cleaning, which makes it easier for rabbit breeders to care for.

Let us single out the main features of the N. Zolotukhin design variant:

1. With the help of flat slate or a sheet of plywood, the floor is made. The mesh is attached only to the floor of the rear cover. The pallet is not provided at all. The developer states that rabbits almost always urinate from the back of the cage. This is where most of the feces are collected. The rest of the feces are scattered on the floor by the rabbits.
2. The structure has a complex structure, including six compartments, located on the floors. Each floor above is shifted relative to the floor next to it, equal to the width of the grid in the floor. And the front side, connecting the floors, is a kind of slope.
3. The mother liquor is completely absent. In cold weather, a special shelter for a rabbit and rabbits is additionally placed.

Tidying is carried out using a goose fan as a sweeping device.

Cage for rabbits in 2 tiers

The use of multi-storey structures for rabbits at home is still the most compact and convenient option breeding rabbits. There is nothing easier than building cages for rabbits with your own hands in 2 tiers.

Assembly diagram

Experienced owners have developed a special instruction, the manual of which contains the following provisions:

• wooden blocks are connected, forming four rectangular bases;
• using a grid with small cells, they make a floor, then install the side walls;
• since the first floor contains feces trays, for the convenience of retrieving them, the floor is pitched;
• pallets for domestic rabbits are prepared using a bar. The second floor under its base must have a strong plywood sheet to prevent contamination from entering the first floor;
• the ceiling is made at the last moment using waterproof materials.

To hold two floors, a reliable frame is designed. To properly complete such a cage design for rabbits, drawings must always be kept at hand. Bunk cages for rabbits have a building layout rule in the shape of the letter "P", represented by standard blocks, fastened together with self-tapping screws.

With such uncomplicated methods, you can make cages for rabbits with your own hands, which in terms of their reliability and comfort will not be inferior to factory designs.